Archive for December, 2008

My decision to make the move from Koh Lanta to Phuket Town to spend Christmas at the Phuket Backpacker hostel couldn’t have gone better, while the mood here isn’t traditionally festive lacking the near opressive sounds of Christmas music flooding your senses in every shop and tv advert, but everyone has been in the mood to go out and party, every night I’ve been here I’ve had no trouble finding a group to eat and drink with, and now I feel like I’ve settled here, I know names and faces and there is a regular crowd of people hanging out together along with a daily flow of new faces as travellers come and go on their journies.

Christmas Eve was spent at Patong Beach a short Tuk Tuk ride away and perhaps the most random night out of the whole festive season, as a very touristy location you get a real glimpse into the seedier side of night life and we ate well, drank in various places of varying quality, and ended up at the Club Hollywood where we got Santa hats with flashing stars on them, very festive.

Christmas Day started slow most of the hostel was hung over but by midday a few of us managed to gear up to hunt down some brunch in Patong, relocate to a lake where they did cable sking, and then just down the road had our Thailand Christmas Dinner at a British run pub who did turkey, stuffing and all the trimmings and then back to Phuket Town for a couple of drinks at the current bar of choice, Roxy.

Boxing Day was just as random, heading to eat at a place on the edge of town with my dorm mates where we ate wild boar and frog, both of which we tasty. Then as we drank at Roxy we bumped into a few more people from the Hostel and ended up heading to one of Phuket Town’s biggest clubs, had a drink in the VIP area and watched the live band who apparently are pretty huge in Thailand, though no idea who they actually are.   We got out of there fairly quickly and went back to Roxy via a round about route and stop at another bar due to a wrong turn and finished the night with a couple of cheaper drinks.

So as Christmas goes this was all Same-Same but different, drinks and food all around and everyone in a good mood, but the sun and heat distracts from the fact it’s Christmas back home and that makes it easier not to dwell on what I’m missing.

All in all I made exactly the right choice hitting this hostel and the people I’ve meet here are Awesome, lots of people are leaving today, and I’ll be moving on myself soon but I’ll be back here when I pass through the region again as it makes a handy base, and I have great feel for the place now.

A couple of days ago as I took a walk down Klong Khong beach as I had every evening for the last week I decided that it seemed a bit quieter then the past few days, a few of the people I had been talking to regularly had moved on and it didn’t seem like anyone had come to take their place. So pretty much there and then I decided to book rooms in Phuket and a boat trip over from Koh Lanta that left 7:30 the next morning.

Getting to Phuket was a very enjoyable boat trip, appraching Koh Phi Phi on the first boat we transfered to the second boat still out on the sea, so I didn’t really step foot on the island, but got some good views of it from not to far away, and then on to Phuket, the whole trip was as always a step by step mission of swapping tickets and getting stickets (I ended up with three stickers in total this time) interestingly the boat company involved used different coloued stickers for different destinations so they should easily herd people around, pretty clever I thought.

I stayed one night in a hotel, which was okay but I was pretty keen to get to my ultimate destination, the Phuket Backpacker Hostel in the heart of Phuket town. The place got Awesome reviews on both websites I checked, and was in my price range of 300 bhat per night (With a slight increase over christmas to 400 bhat) but now I’m here it’s definatly the kind of hostel I was hoping for, the common room has plenty of people comming in and out all day, there is free wi-fi and computers with internet which saves a small fortune on it’s own, and there is a massive and diverse DVD collection which means people ar constantly throwing something on, and I can just pick up a couple of cheap beers and snacks from the 7/11 next door and have a cheap night in, banter with people.

Just around the corner Phuket’s food market provides and interesting place to mooch into and if feeling adventerous sample the various meat on a stick type products, some of which are clearly identifiable things like chicken wings for around 30 bhat, others are sausages and meatball type things which are cheaper and I find, best left unidentified as to what they actually are.

There are beaches just a bus or Tuk Tuk away too, last night myself and six Australian chaps I meet in the common room headed over to Patong beach for a couple of beers – It was a frankly incredibly seedy place, like Amsterdam with sand and fake rolexes for sale, but with out that European cleanliness that made the Dutch capital seem much safer. Even so, it was full of tourists of all kinds, from families with small children, to older white gentlemen with disturbingly young Thai girls on their arms. We left the place after a couple of beers and came back via the 7/11 where we picked up more beer and nibbles and watched the movie back at the Phuket Backpacker

So this is where I plan to spend Christmas, the flow of people, cheap food options all around and comfortable rooms (Not to mention hot showers!) makes this an ideal place for me to settle for the next week, on the 29th I’m schedualled to move on, so will see how things pan out and either head further south to Had Yai with the intention of starting the new year at a Meditation Retreat, else I’ll stick around here and party, and then move on to Khao Lak to do some volunteer work building kids play parks and other projects.

They really will let anyone get on a bike in Thailand, and it’s not even expensive. For 250 bhat (about £5) you cab get an automatic 125 mope/motorbike for 24 hours, manual gears are cheaper still! You have to leave your passport by way of deposit, and then off  you go, even if you’ve never really ridden a bike before as was my case.
I actually think that because everyone from 10 and up seems to be riding around on bikes they don’t actually realise how tricky it is, though when I asked the woman at the bike shop if many people fall off, she did reply with “Oh sure, every day”. Good to know. And I feel less silly about dropping mine now… Yes, I dropped mine, right in front of them, within about 10 seconds of getting it, yet they still let me just pick it up and head off down the road.
Now, riding is actually really easy, Koh Lanta is supposedly nice and flat, and getting a bike avoids some expensive taxi fares to the next towns, handy in my case as I was actually on a mission to track down a pharmacy and pick up some skin cream.
The problem really comes in getting on and off the road, there is normally a good inch or two drop where the tarmack ends and the roadside begins, and pretty much always either gritted, or dusty, which makes control a little tricky, and worse when you want to be on the other side of the road, and of course to keep it interesting the road to my hut is down a long winding dirt track.
However, I did see some Ace sights on my road trip: A Tuk Tuk with a monkey on the back. A roadkilled snake spread flat across the road oh, and a huge hill that would seem more at place on Koh Chang, see, it turns out Koh Lanta is not flat at all, it’s actually on a very slow climb as you drive south, up until  you get to one massive, and frankly terrifying road down hill.
Though I started down the hill, from the top it doesn’t seem so bad at first but as you go down each corner seems to lead to an ever steeper decline and I was incredably thankful there  is a hillside cafe just before it gets really steep, and I pulled in there, hand a pineapple juice and some fried rice for lunch, and decided it would be safer to return the way I came. I really would not have been happy going the rest of the way down.
In the end, I decided it would be best to return the bike early, the road trip was really good fun and certainly an experience, but it’s not one I’d recommend to anyone. Well, not while it’s so fresh in my mind anyway… But I did get what I went out for, and I’m happy I did it when I did and can now rest easy knowing that I shouldn’t even contemplate getting a bike again after dropping it and various points of peril on the road.

I finally made it to Koh lanta – Though getting here is a tale in it’s own right.

I wasn’t really feeling Bangkok, it was pretty much exactly how it was last time I was there, the only real difference been that while last time there were black and white banners mourning the loss of one of the royal family, now yellow flags in support of the PAD stand. No one I’ve spoken to has been put off by the recent protests, but looking up and down Khoasan Road there are plenty of bargins to be had as hostels try to pull in trade.  I decided to play safe, and headed to New My House, having been there before, though no bargins to be had there, not surprising given how popular the place is, and no single rooms, so wasn’t as cheap as I’d like – but after two days of travel, and only a few hours of sleep before I left, I just wanted to crash.
It’s actually quiet mild in Bangkok at the moment, even at midday it’s a very pleasent feel to it – If you discount the smog that taints every smell in the air.
After two nights to catch up on sleep, and have a bit of a look around, but not venturing far, I booked the night bus to Koh Lanta, leaving at 6pm and ariving at midday the next day. Of course, this is Thai time, “midday” is a very different thing to 12pm in the afternoon.
The journey gives a perfect example of how travel works in Thailand however, and it went like this:
Starting at the travel desk at New My House, I ask for a ticket to Koh Lanta, the girl makes a quick phone call and writes me out a receipt.
At 6pm a people carrier taxi picks me up, and calling at two other hostels to collect other people we get to the bus stop at about 6:20pm where a whole bunch of people by the side of the road. Here the hostel recipit is exchanged for another ticket. As you get onto the VIP bus they check  where you are going and seat you acordingly. Why is a mystery, as everyone gets of the VIP bus at the same stop.
VIP Buses are coaches with air conditioning – if you are traveling any distance in Thailand you always want to make sure you are on a VIP Bus.
for the first leg of the journey the light are dimmed, and a couple of pirated films are played from a VCD player. I mostly doze though. It’s actually pretty chilly on the bus so I  curl up under the provided blanket, and sleep as best I can, at about 11pm we stop at a  roadside cafe, allowing for drinks and food to be picked up and as we head of again the lights are turned fully out.
I get some sleep, but not much, in and out as my body clock is still way out of whack, thankfully there is no one in the seaat neck to me so I can shuffle about trying o get comfy easily.
At 6:30 in the morning we get to a tourist office which quiet frankly appeared to be in the middle of no where, everyone gets on the bus and exchanges their tickets for a new one.
Minibuses start arriving at about 7:30, picking up various groups of people, but myself and the Hungarian couple also heading to Koh Lanta don’t get picked up till about 8:30. The mini bus takes us to a near by town about 15 minuets away, and get off told the bus leaves again at 9:30, and sure enough just after 9:30 once another passenger turns up, and a big white box is deelivered, we set of, again we pick up a few people from hostels, hotels, what looked to be a school, and what seemed to be jusst some guy on the side of the road.
along the way to Krabi,the various Thai passengers are dropped off at  road side gateways to personal residences, the box at a road leading to a small open air system of huts just of the road, the marker for which seemd tto be a cow (Yes, a real live cow, big skinny brown cow with a rope to a nose ring, standing on the edge of the road, with a big golden cow bell around it’s neck) oh, and at some point a bag of cogs are dropped off at a road side kitchen.
We get to another tourist office outside krabi at about 12pm. Here, my ticket is exchanged not for a bit of paper, but for a tiny square yellow sticket which the lady writes “1.15″ apparently, that’s when the next mini bus is to pick us up. i exchange shrugs with the hungerian couple, and get myself a pot noodle and enjoy a free satsuma. While waiting, the travel desk woman grills me on where I’m going to stay, and my shrugs and vauge answer of “Oasis” didn’t cut it, and to be fair i didn’t really know where the hell I was going to stay, so I see what options they have to offer – To honest, all the places were out of my price bracket, but I opted for the cheapest  costing 500bhat – since it included free taxi pick up, the extra cost worked out just about okay, and I figured a bit of luxury wouldn’t hurt.
Another minibus turns up pretty much on time, and along with some other people who turned up while waiting, we head on off to Koh Lanta, it’s almost disapointing that this time there were no random errands along the way. and one long drive, two short ferry trips on the mini bus and we pull up at another tourist office, expecting there to be a taxi to pick me up, it turns out they pick you up from the peer aftert the crossing not where the min bus finally stops – not here, and trying to explain the confusion to either the driver, or the guy pestering us for a taxi ride get no  where. The hungarians are int he same boat, so frustrated and tired we all relent and pay for a taxi onwards to our respective hotels. It felt a bit like a skam, but I think it was more a miss comunication. I actually expectd the end point of the minibus ride to be the peer, not further into the island, so I’ll be more careful in future.
When I get to the drive way of the New Lanta Beach resort, a child of about 13 helps me with my lougage, hefting the backpack that I grankly strugle with onto his pack, we head the short walk to recpection, all the while he’s smoking away like a pro.
Once I check in, and try to explaine the confusion about my pickup (Which hopefully got through, and they phone the guy, else who knows how long he’d wait!) I get to my room “Pool Side” rather the the more expensive “Beach Side” apparently doesn’t mean it actually over looks the pool, but it’s close by, and insdie the room I find a TV, airconditioning, a fan, and a mini fridge. Sure it’s nice enough, but to be honest, I don’t feel like it’s worth the extra cash, still, at least it’s somewhere to sleep, and there is a wifi connection here. Though at 100 bhat for 70 minuets I’ll be using the credit sparingly.
This post needs editing but I’m running out of credit! Oops.

I’m in Doha, capital of the state of Qatar in the Middle East, sitting in the airport (DOH) connected to a free wifi hub. Which to be honest sucks so far, but then it’s free and I have 5 more hours before I can board my flight to Bangkok(BKK)so it’s not like there is a huge amount to do here. It’s improving over time as people try to get some sleep and fly out, so able to post now.

First, to bring my progress upto date, long story short with all the protests aginst the now ousted government in Thailand my flight was delayed and finally rebooked for the 9th, but some where along the line that actually got booked for the 8th, so last night at 3am as I was about to finish a late night coding session and decided to check in online, found it telling me the flight was the next day, and had a mad panic to throw everything together leaving a lot of mess in my wake (Sorry Mum!) I had a nice easy day in mind to just tie the last few things together and going for carvery, but instead here I am, sitting in Doha tapping out a blog post.

So far it’s all been a bit dull to be honest.
Manchester Airport:
Seen it before.
Fly to another country on my own: Done it before.
Doha Airport: Seen it before.
The Dark Knight in flight movie: Seen it before.
Hancock in flight movie:
New!

Yes, so far the highlight of my trip has been watching Hancock, which was surprisingly good, and i’d recommend giving it a watch.

When I finally make it into Bangkok this afternoon I still haven’t decided where I’m going to head on the 11th, it might be a little close to the full moon to head to the party on Koh Phangan, so perhaps my initial track of heading to Koh Lanta – one of the quieter islands to the South West of the gulf of Thailand – might be the best option to get some sea air and just chill out for a few days while I chill out and plan some more wild adventures and work on some website stuff.

Oh and the food in Doha Airport is terrible, not because it’s strange, but because the quality just seems very poor – I’ll have breakfast on the next flight though, and worst the coffee chain in residence is Costa Coffee, which I loath. Why couldn’t it be Starbucks?! And I have no idea what the exchange rate is or anything, so just avoiding buying anything here for now.

The protests in Thailand don’t seem to be showing much sign of running out of energy, so at this point unless there is an end to blockade at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport by tomorrow evening I’m going to start putting an alternative travel route into action.

My plan is head into South East Asia via Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur, hopefully without any additional cost (Qatar Airways have been very helpful so far, so I’m optimistic) spend a few days there, and then fly north on a regional flight to Phuket with Air Asia – A budget airline who’s flights don’t appear on flight search engines like Kayak, so check their website directly for route options.

So I’m continuing to look at this as an opportunity, rather then a set back, though it is making it a little harder to get my head around travelling, I was on a very gun-ho just grab my bag and go momentum for the last couple of weeks since I moved out of my house, and finished work last Friday, but now I’ve had a little more time to organize the final details of my packing and better sort out the couple of boxes I’m storing at my parent’s house that rush has been lost.